The Pa Co pillow is an exciting example of four traditional techniques from the countries of India, Indonesia and Vietnam where cultural and ethnic identities are displayed in the form of every day garments.  All three of these fabric pieces were repurposed from clothing I have collected. This pillow is so rich in pattern diversity and would be an eye-catcher in any setting where it is placed.

DETAILS:

• 19” x 19”

• Front - cotton

• Back – cotton, in dark navy

• Zipper closure

• Down duck feather pillow insert

• Fabric origins:  India, Indonesia, Vietnam

THE STORY:

The Pa Co is a one-of-a-kind pillow that uses some of the oldest techniques of traditional textiles. The ancient tie and dye knotted technique of bandhani is around 5,000 years old and is said to have begun in the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat.  Indonesian ikat was introduced to Europe in the early twentieth century by the Dutch when the Dutch East Indies were a colony of the Netherlands.  But the history of ikat can be traced as far back as A.D. 564-624 to the Asuka period in Japan where ikat fragments were found.  Indigo batik hemp has also had a long history dating back to the sixth century in South Western China.  Now, the Hmong ethnic minority Hill Tribes in Vietnam continue the artful practice of using the wax resist on handwoven hemp fabric for their elaborate costumes and baby carriers.  This pillow celebrates textile creativity.

The top left is a very contemporary indigo-dyed bandhani or tritik fabric which is made by using a needle and thread to tightly gather and knot fabric thus forming a resist when put into the dye bath.   It is tied so tight that one can still see the little folds in the fabric even after ironing.  This fabric was from a jacket made in India which I wore for many years.  I was so glad I could repurpose it and give it new meaning in this pillow.  It is embellished with abalone buttons.

I was first introduced to ikat on a trip to Indonesia in 1992. I continue to be amazed by the beautiful and complex patterns the weavers can achieve with this technique of wrapping warp threads to create the pattern before the dyeing process. The ikat fabric on the bottom left of this pillow was woven by a group in Jepara, Java, called Syakila Collection. They are a producer member of Pekerti, the first fair trade organization in Indonesia whom I have worked with for a long time.

The right side of this pillow is made from a small section of an accordion-pleated traditional Hmong skirt from Vietnam.  The indigo batik pattern is embellished with a customary red and multi-colored appliqued thin line pattern work. I have several of these traditional skirts acquired during visits to Craft Link, a fair trade organization that supports ethnic minority groups and traditional craft producers to revive and promote traditional culture and skills through handicraft production. Craft Link is located in Hanoi. Six times I have visited Vietnam but not once did I have the opportunity to visit any of the Hill Tribes in the northern part of Vietnam which is unfortunate because the textiles made by the Hill Tribes are notably some of my favorites.

It is amazing to me that the Hmong women carry out every part of making their own garments.  Each is a painstaking labor of love given all the steps to make a skirt.  That includes growing plants to make the indigo dye base, raising hemp and processing it to spin into thread for weaving the skirt, making the beeswax for the batik process, applying the pattern, dyeing, embroidering, cutting, piecing, pleating, and sewing.  A voluminous skirt requires five or six yards of fabric and can take up to a year to make.  If you look closely, you can see a trace of the pleating in the pillow.  The pleats are permanently embedded in the skirt.